Historic Asian Weaves Cast An Opulent Spell
The Age
Tuesday March 11, 1997
VISITING Woven Magic at Monash University is like entering another world - a distinctive domain of solemn, sonorous color, exquisite crafting and decorative opulence far beyond anything offered by contemporary culture. We are privileged to see some of the finest textiles made in India and South-East Asia in the 18th and 19th centuries. This show will rank as one of 1997's best.
The exhibits are mainly restricted to sari lengths or flat untailored items of dress such as head-cloths and rectangular wrap-around skirts. They are shown as significant vertical or horizontal elements flat against the gallery walls.
As abstract shapes, their imposing presence is enhanced by strong color harmonies set up between passages of red, peacock green, magenta, indigo and saffron - highlighted with silver and gold.
The sheer quality and beauty of these items collected by Adelaide patrons Mary and Michael Abbott, and Dick Richards, curator of Asian art at the Art Gallery of South Australia, is beyond all expectations.
The textiles are generally grouped by type, technique and country of origin, but the viewer is encouraged to contemplate how the various culture contacts occurred, how trade was conducted, where and how such technical wizardry was acquired and how those who enjoyed the privilege of owning or wearing such lavish textiles felt about them.
Included are a large Indonesian festive cloth of minimalist design and the geometric designs of Cambodian silks - a wonderful foil to ornate Persian-inspired Indian weavings of the late 19th century.
Despite the variety of textures, patterns and colors, there is no discordant note in this collection. Unified by a limited range of rich hues derived from natural dyes, it is possible for the large Indonesian festive cloth in green and magenta to hang alongside intricate fine-weft silk ikats with lashings of gold thread.
AT CRAFT VICTORIA is a more recent example of cultural convergence. Design and fabric works by Mikyoung Kim, a Korean textile graduate from RMIT, create a totally different experience.
They are zippy, flashy, electric and technologically contemporary. Her fabric lengths in psychedelic colors with computer-generated designs based on urban imagery seem reminiscent of paintings by Howard Arkley, but are more likely influenced by bright-colored traditional silk costumes worn by Seoul matrons.
* Woven Magic, at Monash University Gallery, until 12 April; Images of Love, at Craft Victoria, until Monday.
© 1997 The Age